The rudder was sanded using 36 grit disks. There was a bad bulge on the port side. In order to true up the surface, it was necessary to actually grind down to the styrofoam (the area round the cracks in the photo). An "air file" with 36 grit paper was used to make the surface as flat as possible. Then a light weight Spectra cloth and polyester resin were applied. This will be faired with 3M filler and painted. 3M 5200 will be used to seal the rudder stock where it enters the rudder to hopefully prevent this problem in the future.
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Rudder Repair Work
The rudder was sanded using 36 grit disks. There was a bad bulge on the port side. In order to true up the surface, it was necessary to actually grind down to the styrofoam (the area round the cracks in the photo). An "air file" with 36 grit paper was used to make the surface as flat as possible. Then a light weight Spectra cloth and polyester resin were applied. This will be faired with 3M filler and painted. 3M 5200 will be used to seal the rudder stock where it enters the rudder to hopefully prevent this problem in the future.
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Carpet Headliner
While the NaugaSoft works well on a very smooth surface, it does not do 
well on a surface that is uneven (all the flaws in the surface show through). Carpet headliner is excellent in this regard. We used this for the v-berth area of the boat. Even though the carpet is a good deal heavier than the NaugaSoft, the 3M General Trim Adhesive was easily up to the task of holding it overhead. We did not want to remove the trim boards on the forward bulkhead or against the head (they were in good shape). So we just used a utility knife to cut the carpet along the edges of those boards. Indeed, the carpet is thick enough that I am not sure the trim boards would have covered them cleanly in any case.
The cut edges were a bit fuzzy (see Photo 1). We solved this issue by running a thin bead of 3M Fast Tack Adhesive all along them. This had the effect of sealing the carpet and preventing any future raveling (we hope).
The carpet was not wide enough to span from side to side so we installed it with a seam down the center (see Photo 2). We used the factory trimmed edges down the center and they matched up very well. The carpet stretches nicely (it is advertised to be up to covering a four inch high and wide bulge -- notice that the carpet closely molds the shape of the backing plate) so mating the two edges was not difficult at all. Two ceiling boards will be reinstalled to cover the outer rough cut edge.
The final photos show the completed work with the ceiling boards installed. Note that the center seam is nearly invisible. The backing plates for the staunchions are 
evident (in the final photo). We may eventually replace them with thinner plates. But then new ceiling boards would be required
to eliminate the cutouts.
well on a surface that is uneven (all the flaws in the surface show through). Carpet headliner is excellent in this regard. We used this for the v-berth area of the boat. Even though the carpet is a good deal heavier than the NaugaSoft, the 3M General Trim Adhesive was easily up to the task of holding it overhead. We did not want to remove the trim boards on the forward bulkhead or against the head (they were in good shape). So we just used a utility knife to cut the carpet along the edges of those boards. Indeed, the carpet is thick enough that I am not sure the trim boards would have covered them cleanly in any case.
The cut edges were a bit fuzzy (see Photo 1). We solved this issue by running a thin bead of 3M Fast Tack Adhesive all along them. This had the effect of sealing the carpet and preventing any future raveling (we hope).
The carpet was not wide enough to span from side to side so we installed it with a seam down the center (see Photo 2). We used the factory trimmed edges down the center and they matched up very well. The carpet stretches nicely (it is advertised to be up to covering a four inch high and wide bulge -- notice that the carpet closely molds the shape of the backing plate) so mating the two edges was not difficult at all. Two ceiling boards will be reinstalled to cover the outer rough cut edge.
The final photos show the completed work with the ceiling boards installed. Note that the center seam is nearly invisible. The backing plates for the staunchions are 
to eliminate the cutouts.
NaugaSoft as Headliner
During the past few days we have put headliner in the Islander. The cabin sides in the way of the portlights was ribbon grain phillipine mahogany. The portlights had leaked badly and a two 
foot square section of the plywood 
was rotten. We removed the portlights and chipped the rotten wood out and cut a new section of plywood to replace it. That was secured in place with 3M 5200 Polysulfide Adhesive. Then 3M Marine Filler was used to smooth the transition (and the cracks) from the old surface to the new one. Finally the surface was wiped (using a wet rag and a dry one) with 3M General Adhesive Remover. We sprayed two coats of 3M General Trim Adhesive on the plywood surface and two coats on the back of a piece of NaugaSoft white vinyl. This was smoothed in place. It was possible to pull it away and reattach it several times. Bubbles were easily removed because the NaugaSoft is quite stretchy. Working time is not a problem -- just spray again with the adhesive and continue after a short time to allow it to dry out to a tacky state.As long as the surface is smooth and clean the NaugaSoft makes an excellent headliner! It has a smooth, soft feel and look. And it is easy to clean. The portlights are back in place. It really looks good!
The same procedure was used to replace the plywood alongside the companionway. In this case, we removed the plywood completely from the fiberglass wall. A new sheet of plywood was cut to fit and glued in place with 3M 5200 sealant/adhesive. This stuff takes nearly a week to set up so be prepared to leave the bracing system in place for all of that period.
foot square section of the plywood 
was rotten. We removed the portlights and chipped the rotten wood out and cut a new section of plywood to replace it. That was secured in place with 3M 5200 Polysulfide Adhesive. Then 3M Marine Filler was used to smooth the transition (and the cracks) from the old surface to the new one. Finally the surface was wiped (using a wet rag and a dry one) with 3M General Adhesive Remover. We sprayed two coats of 3M General Trim Adhesive on the plywood surface and two coats on the back of a piece of NaugaSoft white vinyl. This was smoothed in place. It was possible to pull it away and reattach it several times. Bubbles were easily removed because the NaugaSoft is quite stretchy. Working time is not a problem -- just spray again with the adhesive and continue after a short time to allow it to dry out to a tacky state.As long as the surface is smooth and clean the NaugaSoft makes an excellent headliner! It has a smooth, soft feel and look. And it is easy to clean. The portlights are back in place. It really looks good! |
| The NaugaSoft Smoothed in Place |
 |
| The Plywood "Mostly" Removed from the Companionway ulkhead |
 |
| Braces Hold the Plywood in Place Until Adhesive Sets |
 |
| NaugaSoft Applied Over Plywood |
The Islander 37
Eric Grant obtained this Islander 37, hull #131, mid summer of 2009. It has probably not been in the water for five years or so. In better times, she was sailed out of Michigan City. At one 
point in the early 1990s, she was used as a honeymoon nest! But it has been a long time since her construction in 1970.
The batteries are, of course, dead. And her wiring is very suspect. The rudder is cracked as a consequence of water probably leaking
in at the rudder stock and freezing. The Perkins desiel has not been run for years. There is a good deal of rot in the interior woodwork and especially round the portlights. The cabin floor has several weak points. The hoses are mostly very brittle and even cracked.
Notice the brand new trailer in the picture! It cost a good deal more than the boat. Eric and I towed the 15,000 lb boat just over 100 miles with his Suburban! Not sure we want to do that again.
The headliner has all been removed in the photo above. It was Formica with a foam backed vinyl glued on top. We will reinstall the original Formica with new vinyl headliner (at least that is the plan).
point in the early 1990s, she was used as a honeymoon nest! But it has been a long time since her construction in 1970.The batteries are, of course, dead. And her wiring is very suspect. The rudder is cracked as a consequence of water probably leaking
in at the rudder stock and freezing. The Perkins desiel has not been run for years. There is a good deal of rot in the interior woodwork and especially round the portlights. The cabin floor has several weak points. The hoses are mostly very brittle and even cracked.
Notice the brand new trailer in the picture! It cost a good deal more than the boat. Eric and I towed the 15,000 lb boat just over 100 miles with his Suburban! Not sure we want to do that again.
The headliner has all been removed in the photo above. It was Formica with a foam backed vinyl glued on top. We will reinstall the original Formica with new vinyl headliner (at least that is the plan).
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